We fitted the front wishbones and shocks to the chassis. The nolathane bushes were lubricated using a special polyurethane grease known locally as 'goop'. The wishbones were a tight fit, but we got there. Fitting the ball joints was a new experience. Apparently, the shaft and matching bore of the uprights are tapered. It is called a morse taper, and the idea is that the ball joint shaft will bind in the upright from friction. This is pretty effective, and is the reason a special splitter is needed to separate a ball joint from it's upright. Anyway, the parts are all in place and torqued up (9.7 kg/m according to the manual), and the hubs and discs are attached, and looking pretty good.

The rear suspension was a little more difficult to fit (read had to use the BIG hammer). Mostly this was due to the substantial weight of the diff which had to be suspended from the frame to allow fitting. I found the best way was to suspend the axle/diff fairly high and fit the lower trailing arms at the axle end, then the chassis end.

Then I lowered the diff and fitted the upper trailing arms, axle end then chassis end. The axle end uses 120mm bolts which pass through the shocks, and then chassis brackets and trailing arms. The bolts only need to be just over 100mm in length, so there is almost 20mm of thread sticking out towards the hub. I don't know why Westfield did this. I'll probably cut 15mm off.

We bought a Dial guage and magnetic stand, and aligned the diff ourselves using the workshop manual. The cost of the instruments was $90, which is a lot cheaper than it would have cost to have the diff professionally set up. Anyway, as mentioned before, it is probably pretty worn, and will have to be replaced, so no point in throwing money at it, although I have no problem with spending money on tools. You can't spend too much on tools, books or education.