I sourced all the Ford parts (Escort & Cortina) from Ford Wreckers (Redcliffe). After trying a few different wreckers, these were the only ones that had the required parts, and had them all. I paid $300 for the diff centre, which was a private purchase from the owner. The reason for the high cost is that the centre is a rare 4.44 ratio, which should improve the acceleration of the car.

This is the diff centre. It has a 40 tooth crown and 9 tooth pinion, giving a final drive ratio of 4.44. The diff cage was welded up, but was supplied with a working one. Here's some info on how diffs work. This means I have to either have the dif reconditioned, or do it myself. Still, it should be worth it.

With a 4.44 diff at 8000 rpm, I should get a theoretical top speed of about 250 km/h with 15" wheels and 225/55 tyres. That is as fast as I am willing to go in an open top car, and as the speed limit on the road in Australia is 110 km/h tops, it will do. High top speed is not a requirement.

The steering rack should be OK as it is, but I will have to get the brakes re-conditioned. I may also have to replace the handbrake cable which came attached to the rear drums. The discs look pretty good, but I may replace them anyway, as they only cost about $80 each. Not too much for peace of mind. The total cost of parts seen here is $740, including $300 for the 4.44 diff. Not shown is the Escort radiator which appears in good condition.

John Bosci found me a half cut Toyota Corolla (I think) from Japan. Total klms about 80,000, and in good condition (for a wrecked car). I got the engine, steering column, computer and loom, as well as a few other miscellaneous components which may come in handy. As you can see, it is a 'black top' Toyota 4AGE 20 valve. This is the recommended motor for Australian Westfields, and with 120 kW and about 540kg weight, it provides around 4.5 kg/kW. As the brochure says, better than most Porsches. Yeah!

These modern cars are a lot different from my mates Vauxhall Viva circa 1974. There must be about 20 km of wiring, at least three computers, and pipes everywhere. We eventually tagged the cables and connectors, ready for extraction.

We eventually got the engine out, after cutting the drive shafts (transaxles). This was because we only had the hoist for one day (on hire) and didn't have the required wheel pullers etc. to remove the hubs and suspension. Once the axles were cut of course, everything just came apart. Still, no loss really. Maybe I could have sold the axles/ CV joints, but I still end up with a motor, steering column, computer, instruments, wiper assembly, battery, radiator fan and a few other bits and pieces for $2100. I should also be able to sell the auto gearbox for at least $250 (not much call for it in a Westfield), so I feel it was a good deal.

You can see the engine and trans in the picture. It's also a good shot of the throttle bodies, which look great. John Bosci said the importer had the engine running, so assuming it is ok, I will probably just clean it up and inststall it. It shouldn't need re-conditioning or anything, but I will need to sort out the conversion to manual from an auto trans. Also, according to Phil Bradshaw, I may need to modify the wiring to the computer, as the auto computer prevents the engine from starting if the car is not in park.

Here's the engine on the new engine stand. I don't know who thought of these stands, but they look completely unnatural. I mean, here is about 120 Kg of metal hanging off four bolts (*very* expensive bolts I might add, i.e. $9.00 each from lightning bolt in Rocklea. If anyone in Brissie knows of a cheaper nut & bolt shop please tell me!). The stand simply attaches through four (M12 1.25 pitch 100mm) bolts into the block. Can this be good for the block?

Anyway all worries aside, it seems to be holding up, and will make inspection, cleaning and more importantly moving of the engine much easier.

The T50 gearbox from John Bosci comes in a lovely blue. The box needs a gear selector, which is on it's way, and a new thrust bearing and spigot bearing. What the heck is a spigot bearing? As far as I can tell, it is a small roller bearing which goes on the end of the gearbox shaft to stop it from flexing. Well, you live and you learn, especially when you undertake to build your own car.

Anyway the box was $400 from JB, and I now need to fill some of the rebates in the bell housing, so it can be drilled to fit the 20V 4AGE, for which JB has a template. So it is over to his place again tomorrow. Oh, and the blue colour will very soon be a nice sensible silver.

This is the lightened flywheel and flex plate I purchased from Paul Arnott. My digital bathroom scales, which aren't totally accurate, give a weight of 3.6 kgs for this, although Paul reckons it's 3.8kg. I hadn't intended to use a lightened flywheel, but as I'd had trouble locating a 20V flywheel (or 16V) at the wreckers, and as these were available and a great price, I snapped 'em up.

The cost of a new lightened flywheel from Alloy Race Components was $600, so I think I got a bargain. Hopefully, the throttle response should be sharper, and the engine will still be able to idle. I'm still waiting for my 16V heavy duty clutch from Merv McCallum, then I can assemble the clutch and gearbox.