Here is the alloy fuel tank purchased from John Bosci. The normal method is to fit the tank between the cross members, lying with it's bottom flush with the bottom of the cross members. This prototype was too wide to fit between, and sits above the cross members. So we welded a couple of metal straps between the tops of the cross members, and sat the tank on top. It is secured by cap head screws onto rivnuts drilled into the chassis. We had to make up extension sleeves at the rear, as the brackets were welded too high. Lucky we got a discount for this tank!
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| The fuel exits the tank via low pressure hose to the low pressure filter onto the EFI pump. From there, it goes through high pressure hose to the bundy tube along the tunnel and into the engine bay. We welded together two exhaust brackets to make a mount for the Bosch fuel pump, and it seems to work well. The low pressure fuel filter is held by two cable ties to a bracket that is bolted to the chassis.
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| I picked up a charcoal canister from Salisbury Wreckers. I was looking for a Toyota unit, but I saw this one in a Suzuki Swift, and it looked much neater, so I thought, why not? I will mount it in the rear of the car, as the front is getting fairly crowded, and it looks neater. The unit originally slipped onto a bracket on the Suzuki firewall, so I will have to make my own bracket to fix to the frame above the fuel tank.There are three holes in the top, and one at the bottom. The bottom is a drain, and I have identified the input and output on the top (I think). The third one is a mystery, but is probably taking a connection from the air conditioner. I think I can safely ignore it.
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I decided to use the existing high pressure fuel hose with banjo bolts from the half cut. I sourced a replacement filter, and mounted it on the driver's side firewall, as this was the only viable position given the length of the hose. The only other option was next to the exhaust system, which was not a good idea. Unfortunately, this arrangement meant that I had to bend the fuel input bundy into strange shapes to make it fit. Not only that, but I had to make the flare not once, not twice, but three times in a row, because I forgot to thread the nut on first. I'm getting pretty good at double flares! I'll clamp the tubing down once I am sure everything is in it's permanent position (probably next year!).
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| The charcoal canister is shown here in place. Apparently, the canister must be above the level of the tank, or else it can induce a vacuum in the tank, which causes fuel pumping problems. I decided to mount the canister at the rear of the car, as it is getting a bit crowded in the engine bay. It makes no difference in terms of plumbing, as there is still a breather pipe running along the trans tunnel whether the canister is up front, or at the rear. I will replace the right-angle breather fitting to the tank with a straight fitting to make the flexible tubing more straight. |
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| This shot shows the bracket I made to mount the charcoal canister. The bracket avoids the need to drill through the rear stays, which is probably a good thing. Instead, I clamped the bracket between the rear stays, which should be secure enough. I made the brackets using a big hammer and finished with hammercote paint. You can cover up anything with hammercote! This shot shows clearly the un-needed air-conditioning inlet. |
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After much research I have decided to use a Unifilter oiled foam air filter. It's throttle body kit model number UR425 90. This seems the simplest option, as it is basically a bolt-on item. Other solutions involve air boxes with seperate filter boxes and associated plumbing. This is probably not the optimal solution for performance, but it will do for the time being.
This shot shows the backing plate in place with the inlet trumpets. I had to trim the rubber 'snail' inlet trumpets, and this is worrying me, as they now have no bell or lip. |
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This is the finished air filter. I will have to modify the bonnet and fit a bubble or dome to clear the filter. I haven't seen a clubbie using the 20V engine that hasn't had to modify the bonnet. You'd think Westfield would supply them already done. White Pointer makes one of these, so I'll probably be off to see Reinhold on the weekend. When I'm through rego, I'll think about making an air ram, and getting trumpets that fit. Unifilter sells 20V rams, but they're for the silver top, which is different to the black top.
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I eventually replaced the Suzuki charcoal canister, as it was not the right one for this car. The Suzuki part was from an older type engine that used three ports (plus drain). The photo shows the canister I picked up from a Toyota Corolla at the wreckers, which has just the two ports. |
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These are the fuel tank filler parts. The brass adapter was machined from a solid 4kg lump of brass from the metal recyclers. Very wasteful! The neck is from a Nissan, and it had an overflow tube attached near the mouth. I cut it off and filled the hole with Selleys KneadIt, the epoxy metal filler. The neck has the required restrictor for unleaded fuel. The distance between the tank outlet and the top of the bonnet boot is only about 120mm, so we had to cut the pipes right down. |
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This shot shows the filler cap from a Mitsubushi, which has the words 'Unleaded Fuel Only' moulded into the cap. Hopefully, I won't need a sticker also. The ali panel is a splash panel, in case of fuel spills. I don't want fuel soaking into the plywood. Of course, I will seal and paint the plywood first. |
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